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A
Abalone
Also called
Mother Of Pearl. Made from the inside of the seashell.
AB
Short for Aurora Borealis
Alpaca
Sometimes spelled Alpacca is an alloy metal consisting of approx 60%
copper, 20% nickel, 20% zinc, and 5% tin
Amulet
An amulet is a pendant or charm worn for its protective magic powers
Art Deco
Art Deco was popular from the 1925-1939. The art deco style was characterized
by angular geometric shapes, zigzags, bold colors, molded or faceted
Czech glass beads, plastics such as celluloid and bakelite. This era
began to use
colored stones more. Jade, onyx and sometimes coral was set in geometric
shapes. The art deco period began with very light designs but as the
period progressed designs become bolder and more blocky.
Art Nouveau
Art Nouveau was popular from 1895 until World War I. Art Nouveau style
was characterized by curves and naturalistic designs. It was especially
focused on depicting long - haired, sensual women, flower styles, sensual
curves,
and naturalistic.
Arts and Crafts
The Arts and Crafts movement that began in the late 1800s as a rebellion
against the mass - produced, machine made that were common in the late
Victorian era. The designers felt that their work should look handmade,
so jewelry
of this era will often have tiny hammer marks on it.
Gold was used
but silver was more common because it was used to emphasize the craftsmanship
of the
piece rather than the value of the metal. Cabochon stones such as moonstone,
mother of pearl,
agate,
amber were quite popular.
Aurora Borealis
Faceted glass beads that have an added iridescent coating are called
aurora borealis. The coating is used on beads and rhinestones and produces
a multi color light reflection. The Aurora borealis means northern
lights. The iridescent surface occurs when a very thin layer of metallic
atoms are
deposited on the lower surface of the stone. The process was invented
by the Swarovski Co & Christian Dior in 1955.
Amethyst
According to Greek mythology, the god Dionysus, master of revelry
and drunkenness, created amethyst as he wept over the statue of a
fair maiden.
According to legend, Dionysus was in a terrible mood and vowed to
have his vicious tigers attack the next mortal who crossed his path.
As fate would
have it, a fair maiden by the name of Amethyst was strolling in the
wood. As the tigers rushed forward to attack the maiden, the chaste
goddess Artemis
took pity on the lady and transformed her into a figure of pure
quartz.
Dionysus, mortified by his actions, wept over Amethyst, turning the
crystal to the
color of deep wine, creating the first amethyst. For the Greeks,
this crystal would come to serve as a protection against intoxication.
The word amethustos
means not drunken, and the Greeks would carve goblets and vessels
from the stone to prevent inebriety. Like a beautiful wine, prized
amethyst is the
color of deep purple, but can be found in shades of light lavender, violet,
and lilac. The stone has been used by cultures for centuries, most
notably by the Greeks and people of Central and South America, who
used it to carve one of the legendary crystal skulls. The skull
supposedly has mystical powers, most likely due to the chemical principals
of the crystal. Amethyst is a form of quartz, composed of silicon
dioxide, iron, and aluminum. Like all quartz, it is piezoelectric,
creating an electric
charge when rubbed or heated. Although its mystic qualities may be
hocus pocus, this wine colored stone is certainly enchanting.
Aquamarine- March
Gazing into the swirling depths of this stone, men caught glimpses
of the future, eternal youth, and eternal happiness. With a name whose
Latin meaning is sea water, the aquamarine reflects the most delicate tones
of the most soothing sea. Yet despite its delicate appearance, it is plenty
tough, with a score of 7.5 to 8 on the
Mohs Scale. A variation of beryl,
which is the same mineral that makes up
emerald,
aquamarine, or beryllium
aluminum silicate, has been valued throughout the ages. It was known to
the ancients as the sailor’s gem, a gift from the sea, and would protect
those who set sail on the treacherous oceans. The Romans believed that
an aquamarine engraved with a frog would allow the owner to make peace
with his enemies. The stone reached enormous popularity in the 1300’s,
not because of its remarkable beauty, but because of its rumored ability
to act as an antidote to any poison. Although this tradition faded away,
aquamarines still evoke images of ancient seas and eternal love.
Atomic Movement
Watches with atomic movements are the most accurate timekeepers in
the world. Each watch synchronizes with the
National Institute of Science
and Technology’s atomic clock several times daily via radio signal. As
a result, the watch will only lose a second once in every one million years.
It adjusts automatically to time zones, leap years, and daylight savings
time. Most
atomic watches use
quartz movements to keep time between synchronizations.
Automatic Movement
Automatic watches operate using the same principal as mechanical watches.
The chief difference is that one does not need to wind an
automatic watch;
the motion of the wearer’s arm ensures that the spring is wound. The watch
contains a semicircular rotor attached to a ratcheted winding mechanism
that swings back and forth as the watch moves. As a result, the watch never
needs a battery. Self-winding mechanisms were invented in 1770 when days
Abraham-Louis Perrelet created a movement for pocket watches. When wristwatches
became popular after World War I, John Harwood created a bumper watch.
This watch included a rotor that did not rotate fully, but bumped back
and forth to create the necessary ratcheting motion. With the perfection
of the mechanism, today’s automatic watches will run for two days with
a fully wound spring. The watch may need to be occasionally reset to maintain
accuracy, or one can purchase a watch winder that will keep the watch’s
spring wound when not being worn.
Alexandrite
On April 17, 1834,
Tsar Alexander II came of age and became the ruler
of Russia. On that same day in an emerald mine in the Urals, a miraculous
stone was discovered. The green stone was originally thought to be an
emerald,
until it was illuminated under incandescent light and turned a deep shade
of red. The new stone was called alexandrite after the new tsar. Alexandrite
became the nation stone of tsarist Russia, whose colors were red and green,
and was very popular in jewelry stores in St. Petersburg and Moscow. The
gem did not become popular in America until Tiffany’s master gemologist
George Kunz released a collection of jewelry using the stone. Alexandrite
is composed of chrysoberyl containing chromium, which gives the gem its
ability to change color. With a hardness of 8.5 on the Mohs scale, it is
ideal for jewelry. It is quite a rare gem and a wonderful addition to any
gem lover’s collection.
Bakelite
Bakelite was patented in 1909 and is also called catalin. It is a synthetic
material which was extensively used in jewelry during the 1930s Depression.
It can be molded or carved and multi colors can be inlaid together. It has
a distinct scent when rubbed to warm, somewhat like formaldehyde
Baguette
A gemstone cut in a narrow rectangular shape. Small diamonds are
sometimes cut this way to use as accents
Baroque
An irregular, rounded stone, glass or bead. Imitation pearls with
an uneven shape are also referred to as
baroque.
Base metal, pot metal, white metal
Any combination of alloys of non - precious metals.
Bezel Setting
The way of setting a stone in which the stone is held in place
by a narrow band of metal around the outer edge of the stone.
Birthstone
Birthstones have their roots in ancient astrology, and there
have been many birthstone lists used over the years. This
is one of the more common
lists. January – Garnet; February – Amethyst; March – Aquamarine;
April – Diamond; May – Emerald; June – Pearl or Moonstone;
July – Ruby; August –
Peridot; September – Sapphire; October – Opal; November –
Citrine or Topaz; December – Turquoise or Zircon
Bookchain
A Victorian chain of which the links are rectangular folded
pieces of metal, made in gold, gold fill, and sterling
silver. Book chains often had large locket attached and they were usually
elaborately
engraved.
Brass
An alloy of copper and zinc which has a nice yellow color.
Britannia or pewter
A somewhat dull silver - colored alloy of tin, antimony,
and copper.
Blue Topaz
Al2(SiO4)F1.1(OH)0.9
Never has a stone suffered from such confusion as topaz. The name itself is a mystery. Some concede that the name came from the Indian Sanskrit tapas, meaning fire. Others believe the word is of Greek origin, coming from the name of the island Topazo where peridot was mined. Another possible origin is the Greek topazos which means shine. Whatever origin is correct, they all evoke beautiful images of this stunning gem. A silicate mineral of fluorine and aluminum, it comes in many colors, perhaps the most alluring to be blue. Blue topaz has three variants, Sky, Swiss, and London Topaz, ranging from the faintest azure to darkest navy. All forms are quite hard with a Mohs score of eight, and have been thought to possess mystical powers which could protect, heal, or enlighten the wearer.
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Cabochon
A stone with a rounded surface, rather than with facets. Most often
seen with
opal, moonstone,
jade,
turquoise, and faux gems.
Carat
Abbreviated "ct." and spelled with a "c" is a measure of weight used for gemstones. A.15 carat stone can be called either
5 points, or 1/5 of a carat. The relationship of weight and size is different
for each family of stones.
Cameo
A style of carving in which the design motif is left and the surrounding
surface is cut away leaving the design in relief. Often made of shell,
hard stone, glass, and more recently plastics
Cast
Made by a centrifugal method of casting metal which becomes thick and
hard.
Celluloid
Celluloid is derived from cellulose which is a natural plant fiber.
It was first synthesized around 1870. Celluloid items for were often
set with pave rhinestones. Celluloid is flammable and it does deteriorate
quickly
if exposed to moisture.
CFW
Abbreviation for
cultured freshwater pearls
Channel Set
A gem setting technique in which a number of square or rectangular
stones are set side by side in a grooved channel. The stones are not
secured individually, so there is no metal visible between the stones.
Used mostly
on round or baguette
Chatelaine
A chatelaine is a set of implements worn at the waist which then carries
various items such as needle cases, pencil, scissors, dangling from
chains attached to it.
Chaton Setting
It is a setting in which the stone is held in by many metal claws around
a metal ring.
Claw Setting
A claw setting is one in which a series of metal prongs called claws
holds a stone securely in a setting. The claw settings used today date
back to the 1800's
Cloisonné
Cloisonné is a method of applying enamel to metal in which the design
is first outlined on the metal surface using a metal wire. The space
between the wires is filled with enamel and then fired to a glassy
sheen
Closed Setting
The back of the stone is not exposed, meaning the metal is not cut
away behind the stone
Cluster Setting
Small stones set clustered around a larger center stone
Coin Silver
A silver colored metal that is a mixture of 80% silver and 20% copper.
A lot of European silver pieces are coin silver and are marked 800.
Coral
Coral comes in colors ranging from vivid orange to palest pink. During
the mid - Victorian large brooches of coral finely carved in high -
relief florals or faces were very popular.
Crimp Bead
Small, soft metal beads that are squeezed shut to secure loops of
threading material fasteners onto clasps.
Crystal
A glass stone or bead, usually with high lead content.
CTW
Carat Total Weight
Cubic Zirconium
Also known as Cubic zirconia or CZ is a lab produced gemstone that
resembles a diamond.
Citrine
Citrine reflects nature’s sweetest and sunniest shades. Its tones capture every color of the sun, from the soft, pale sunrise, to a midday gleam, to a fiery sunset. The gem’s name comes from the French citron, meaning lemon, and the stone certainly captures this citrusy flavor. As sweet and lovely as honey, citrine has been prized as a healing stone which evokes joy and jubilation. This stone makes the perfect gift for the sunshine in your life.
Cultured Pearl vs.
Natural Pearls
Culture pearls are identical to natural pearls in physical composition
and appearance. The only difference between the two types is that a natural
pearl forms when a particle enters the mollusk by chance, and a cultured
pearl forms when the particle is placed in the shell by man. Cultured
pearls are
not imitation pearls because they are made of nacre. One can distinguish
a true pearl from an imitation by rubbing the object against one’s teeth.
Pearls feel gritty, whereas imitations will be smooth. Due to the rarity and
price
of natural pearls, the majority of pearls on the market these days are
cultured. The modern process of culturing was created by three Japanese
men
in the early
1900’s. Tokichi Nishikawa and Tatsuhei Mise simultaneously discovered
the method of inserting a particle into the shell, but it was Kokichi
Mikimoto who truly
founded the industry by focusing on creating truly round pearls. The
industry has spread to many nations, including China and Australia and
now includes
freshwater as well as saltwater pearls.
Chrysoprase
Also known as Australian Jade or the Victory Stone,
chrysoprase is
an apple green variety of chalcedony that contains nickel. According to
legend, Alexander the Great wore a chrysoprase into every battle, which
was the key to his incredible military conquests. The young commander,
who was undefeated on the battlefield, was only overcome by death after
a snake bit the stone and it was lost in a river. With a hardness of 7
on the Mohs scale, chrysoprase is great for jewelry. Perhaps it will lead
to some conquests of your own.
Dead Stone
A foil - backed rhinestone that has lost its original shininess, usually
after water has damaged the foil.
Demi Parure
Diamante
Dog Collar
Doublet
Duette
engagement rings
are universal symbols of love. The Romans
began the tradition of exchanging bands, which were placed on the
ring finger which was said to have a vein that lead directly to the heart.
Diamonds
entered the picture in the 15th century when Emperor Maximilian I
gave his bride, Mary, Duchess of Burgundy, a diamond wedding band, and the
tradition
has continued. In the 1870’s, major finds in South Africa allowed
more people than ever to purchase diamonds. The value of a diamond is based
on the Four C’s: cut, color, clarity, and carat.
Diamonds should
be cut
in such a manner that will emphasize its brilliance and fire. Although
diamonds are usually thought of as completely colorless, they come
in almost every color, including blue, yellow, and even black. This range
of colors
is due to the chemical composition of the stones. Natural diamonds
are pure carbon, but may contain impurities, such as nitrogen, which creates yellow diamonds, or boron, which creates blue gems. The most valuable
diamonds are described as flawless, and have no inclusions that change
their color or affect their brilliance. Carat describes the size of a diamond.
One carat is equal to 200 milligrams.
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Edwardian
Enamel
Eyepin
F
Faceted
Faux
Findings
Florentine Finish
Foilback
French Jet
G
Gemstones
Genuine
German Silver
Green Amethyst
Garnet- January
Gold
Gold Tone
Gold Washed
Gunmetal
H
Hallmark
Herkimer
Hearts and Arrows Ideal Cut
Inlay
Intaglio
Iridescent
Iridium
Irradiated Diamonds
Irradiation
Iolite
Japanned
Jet
Jump Ring
Jewel Bearing
Lapidary
Lavalier
Living Jewelry
Lucite
Luster
Lapis lazuli
Larimar
M
Mabe or Mobe
Marquise
Matinee Length
Melee
Memory Wire
Mexican Diamond
Micromosai
Millefiori
MM
Molded Cameo
Montana Ruby
MOP
Mourning Jewelry
Murano Glass
Navette
Nickel silver
Oiling
Opal Triplet
Opaque
Parure
Paste
Patina
Pave
Cultured Pearl vs. Natural Pearls
Mother-of-pearl and Abalone
Pewter
Plating
Plique - a - jour
Pot metal
Princess Length
Pronged
PT or Plat
Peridot
Robert Frost once wrote, “Nature’s first green is gold, her hardest hue
to hold.” Frost believed “nothing gold can stay,” but the wonderful shade of
peridot is everlasting. Although the stone’s name comes from the word peritot,
meaning gold, the gem is a beautiful, sparkling green. Peridot has been valued
for centuries. From Cleopatra, who adorned her exquisite jewelry with the stone,
to adventurous pirates, who believed the gem could protect their golden hordes.
The stone was originally mined on the island of Topazo in the Red Sea and transported
to Egypt, were it was considered the “gem of the sun.” The soothing color arises
from the metal within the magnesium iron silicate which makes up the gem. It
is often found in volcanic areas, having exploded out of the earth with magma
and lava. Peridot can also be found in large quantities in meteorites which
hit the earth, making them the little green jewels from outer space.
R
Reconstructed Stone
Regard
Rhodium
Rhodium Plating
Retro
Rocaille
Rolled Gold
Rope
Russian Gold Finish
In the country of Burma stretches the Mogok Stone Tract in the legendary Valley of Rubies. According to legend, the first ruby, the center of earth’s fire and blood, was discovered here by an enormous eagle, long before men came to the valley. The ruby, known by the Hindus as rajnapura, or “King of Gems,” was treasured as the most valuable object by ancient monarchs. When a stone was found, the king would send out a delegation to welcome the gem to the kingdom. Rubies spread through the halls of royals from India to England, where a ruby adorns the king’s coronation ring. Today, rubies are symbols of passion and power. The stone’s color is its most important attribute. Rubies are always red, as a result of traces of chrome in aluminum oxide. If the gem is not absolutely red, it is considered a sapphire. Like sapphires, rubies are composed of the mineral corundum, which is extremely hard, second only to diamonds. The most prized rubies let off an almost fluorescent glow and can appear silky or velvety in hue. This king of gems is the best gift for the ruler of your heart.
S
Safety Catch
In ancient times, certain cultures believed that the Earth was an enormous blue gemstone in which the continents were imbedded. Although this notion was eventually discarded, people still valued the radiant mineral which the Hebrews called Sapir. However, the ancients were not mistaken in their description of the beautiful sapphire. Some of the most valued stones are indeed as blue as the deepest oceans. The stone, which is in fact aluminum oxide or corundum, can be found in every color of the spectrum. Certain trace elements within the pure compound produce various hues. The vivid blue colors are usually products of titanium oxide or iron. It is one of the hardest stones, scoring a 9 on the Mohs Scale, second only to diamond. Throughout history, sapphires have been prized by all who have looked upon them. The empires of Southeast Asia have stocked their treasure troves for centuries with the stones from Sri Lanka, the “Jewel Box of the Indian Ocean.” It is said that King Solomon once wooed the Queen of Sheba with these Ceylon Sapphires. More recently, sapphires have graced royal collections, including the 18 carat engagement ring of Princess Diana. Though the world may not be a sapphire imbedded with earth, perhaps you can find a piece of jewelry imbedded with sapphires that will mean the world to you.
Satin Finish
Sautoir
Scatter Pins
Seed Pearl
Shank
Signed
Signet Ring
Silver Tone
Slide Bracelet
Snake Chain
Souvenir Jewelry
Split Ring
Star Setting
Striations
Made in laboratories; these stones generally lack imperfections. It is very difficult to distinguish a synthetic stone
925 parts silver, legal standard.T
Taxco
Tiffany Setting
Torsade
Tortoise Shell
Translucent
Transparent
Trembler
Triplet
Turquoise- December
Tourmaline
Vermeil